Upgrade gatsby to v4

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The rewards for upgrading include:

Parallel building of content. ~40% faster builds.
Server-side rendering! Takes some effort to enable.
Defer building infrequently-read pages until someone loads them (relies on SSR).
A silly number of bugfixes and performance improvements.

Gatsby's developers also prepared an upgrade guide. The highlights:

The final v3 release adds deprecation warnings to make it easier to transition in multiple steps.
There does not seem to be automated tooling to handle most of the changes.
Minimum node version updated (we already took care of this).
Several plugins and configurations deprecated; numerous signature changes.

This would also address #264.

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